Free Pattern – New Beginnings Shortie Socks

A free sock pattern, just in time for spring and summer!

Important information

Required materials:

Yarn – approximately 60g/280 yd of fingering weight yarn if planning to knit a longer leg length leg (typically around 60 rounds after the cuff)

Sample shown in pictures:

• KnitPicks Stroll Hand Painted in the colorway Taffeta – 75/25 Fine superwash merino wool and nylon blend

Needles – Size US 1 (2.25mm) circular needles on a 32-inch cable for the magic loop method

Notions –

• Tapestry needle for the Kitchener stitch and weaving in ends
• Stitch marker/progress keeper
• Scissors

Gauge – Approximately 9 stitches per inch in stockinette

Abbreviations and Stitch Information –

• Rd – Round
• CO – Cast on
• St – Stitch
• K – Knit
• P – Purl
• Sl – Slip (purlwise with yarn in the back unless otherwise noted)
• Wyif – with yarn in the front
• Wyib – with yarn in the back
• SSK – Slip, slip, knit (slip 2 stitches knit wise, then knit them both together through the back loops)
• K2tog – Knit 2 stitches together
• P2tog – Purl 2 stitches together
• Instep – Front and/or top of sock
• Sole – Back and/or bottom of sock
• N1 – Needle 1 – the needle that holds the front/top of your sock
• N2 – Needle 2 – the needle that hold the back/heel/bottom portion of your sock

Size Information – Small(Medium, Large) with a foot circumference of 8-9” (9-10”, 10-11”). Please note that these numbers are for the *circumference* of the foot – not the foot length. I recommend allowing for about 1-2 inches of negative ease so that the socks fit well and hug your feet.

Pattern

CUFF

CO 56(64, 72) sts using the long tail cast on method. For the magic loop method, divide your stitches evenly across both needles and join for working in the round.

Rounds 1-10: (K2, P2) Repeat all the way around.

PATTERNED SECTION

• Rd 1: K every st all the way around.
• Rd 2: (K3, P1), Repeat across N1. K across N2.
• Rd 3: K every st all the way around.
• Rd 4: (K2, P2), Repeat across N1. K across N2.
• Rd 5: K every st all the way around.
• Rd 6: (P3, K1), Repeat across N1. K across N2.
• Rd 7: K every st all the way around.
• Rd 8: (P2, K2), Repeat across N1. K across N2.

Repeat these 1 more time, stopping after you’ve worked the last round of the leg across the front of the sock, giving you a total of 15 ½ rounds worked for the leg portion. In other words, once you get to round 8 a 2^nd time, you will (P2, K2) across N1 only and then stop.

If you’d like to make socks with a longer leg, feel free to repeat the patterned section as much as your heart desires.

SLIP STITCH HEEL FLAP

The heel is worked back and forth along N2.

Row 1 (RS): (Sl1 with yarn in the back, K1) Repeat to the end of row.

Row 2 (WS): Sl1 with yarn in the front, P to the end of row.

Repeat these 2 rows 14(16, 18) times, until you end up with a total of 28(32, 36) rows on your heel flap.

HEEL TURN

• Row 1 (RS): Sl1 wyib, K 14(16, 18), SSK, K1, turn your work.
• Row 2 (WS): Sl1 wyif, P5, P2tog, P1, turn your work.
• Row 3 (RS): Sl1 wyib, K to 1 st before space, SSK, K1, turn your work.
• Row 4 (WS): Sl1 wyif, P to 1 st before space, P2tog, P1, turn your work.

Continue repeating rows 3 and 4 until you have worked all stitches on N2. You should end on a RS row.

GUSSET

You will begin working on the back of your sock for the gusset.

Pick up 14(16, 18) stitches along the side of the heel flap.

Once you have picked up these, pick up 1 more in the ladder below.

Staying in pattern, K across the instep of your sock.

You are now on the other side of your gusset.

Pick up 1 stitch from the ladder below again.

Pick up 14(16, 18) stitches along the side of the heel flap.

Knit across to complete the round.

It’s time to start decreasing!

*Tip* – Don’t forget to stay in pattern along the instep portion of your sock! It might be helpful to place a progress keeper on the front of your sock as a reminder to stay in pattern across N1.

Round 1: N1: Stay in pattern.

                   N2: K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.

Round 2: N1: Stay in pattern.

                   N2: K across.

Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until you are back to your original stitch count of 56(64, 72), or a total of 28(32, 36) sts on each needle.

FOOT

Continue working the established pattern until you have reached your desired foot length, and then K 1 more round before starting the toe decreases.

When trying to figure out when you should stop before knitting the toe decreases, subtract about 1.25(1.5, 1.75) inches from the total length that you’re aiming for and stop there.

*Tip* – if you know the shoe size of the person you are knitting for, a quick google search of the shoe size in inches will be a huge help in figuring out when to start the toe.

TOE

Round 1: K1, SSK, K to last 3 stitches before sole begins, K2tog, K1

                   K1, SSK, K to last 3 stitches before instep begins, K2tog, K1

Round 2: K all stitches.

Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until you have 14(16, 18) stitches left on each needle.

Repeat round 1 over and over until you have 8 stitches left on each needle.

*Tip* – Some knitters choose to knit an extra round before using the Kitchener stitch to close their toe. I do not do this – as soon as I am down to 8 stitches on each needles, I go straight into closing up the toe. I find that this gives it a slightly rounder shape.

Use the Kitchener stitch to close the toe.

Weave in your ends. I believe blocking is optional for socks unless they’re a gift or you’re planning to take nice looking pictures of them before wearing them.

You did it! Enjoy your new handmade socks!